Skin science article
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This a
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
PEG-150
Methyl Trimethicone
Panthenol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Propylene Glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyproline
C14-22 Alcohols
Squalane
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Butylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Velvet Extract
Tromethamine
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Triethylhexanoin
Carbomer
Dimethiconol
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Parfum
Algin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Stearic Acid
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Cholesterol
PEG-100 Stearate
Beta-Glucan
Glycereth-20
Poria Cocos Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Trisodium EDTA
Cordyceps Sinensis Extract
CI 15985
CI 19140
Arbutin
Glycosphingolipids
Oligopeptide-1
Oligopeptide-4
Phospholipids
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Oligopeptide-2
Histidine Hcl
Arginine
Lysine
Valine
Threonine
Leucine
Methionine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Inositol
Cystine
Tryptophan
Folic Acid
Niacinamide
Pyridoxine Hcl
Thiamine Hcl
Calcium Pantothenate
Biotin
Riboflavin
Cyanocobalamin
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-150, Methyl Trimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyproline, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Velvet Extract, Tromethamine, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Parfum, Algin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Stearic Acid, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Cholesterol, PEG-100 Stearate, Beta-Glucan, Glycereth-20, Poria Cocos Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Trisodium EDTA, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, CI 15985, CI 19140, Arbutin, Glycosphingolipids, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-4, Phospholipids, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oligopeptide-2, Histidine Hcl, Arginine, Lysine, Valine, Threonine, Leucine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Inositol, Cystine, Tryptophan, Folic Acid, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine Hcl, Thiamine Hcl, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Riboflavin, Cyanocobalamin
Isopropyl Myristate
Glycereth-26
Sodium DNA
Polyglycerin-3
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polyisobutene
Milt Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Adenosine
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Disodium EDTA
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Ubiquinone
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Salmon Egg Extract
Atelocollagen
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Milt Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ubiquinone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Salmon Egg Extract, Atelocollagen
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!