Skin science article
The INKEY List 1% Retinol Serum Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
The INKEY List 1% Retinol Serum Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to bal
The INKEY List 1% Retinol Serum Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Retinol
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Benzyl Alcohol
Phospholipids
Tocopherol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Glycine Soja Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycolipids
Dehydroacetic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glycine Soja Sterols
T-Butyl Alcohol
Water, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycine Soja Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolipids, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycine Soja Sterols, T-Butyl Alcohol
Niacinamide 10%
Pentylene Glycol
Zinc PCA 1%
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Xanthan Gum
Isoceteth-20
Ethoxydiglycol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Niacinamide 10%, Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA 1%, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!