The INKEY List Alpha Arbutin Serum Versus The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2%

The INKEY List Alpha Arbutin Serum Versus The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2%

This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Glycerin

Alpha-Arbutin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Squalane

Phospholipids

Glycine Soja Oil

Carbomer

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Phytate

Glycolipids

Sorbitan Isostearate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Glycine Soja Sterols

Hyaluronic Acid

Tocopherol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Phospholipids, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Sterols, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol

Ascorbic Acid

Propanediol, Ascorbic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).

It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.

There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.

The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.

Human studies look good too.

A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.

Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.

Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

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