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The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Naked & Thriving Renew Resurfacing Night Serum

The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Naked & Thriving Renew Resurfacing Night Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Fer

The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Naked & Thriving Renew Resurfacing Night Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate 1%

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Acer Saccharum Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Allantoin

Sodium Levulinate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Anisate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate 1%, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Ferulic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Ferulic Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Acer Saccharum Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Citric Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

We don't have a description for Acer Saccharum Extract yet.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is more commonly known as the bitter orange. Native to Southeast Asia, this extract is commonly found in both cosmetics and foods.

The bitter orange possesses antibacterial and antioxidant properties.

It can also be mildly exfoliating due to the citric acid, an AHA.

Citrus fruits are rich in flavonoids, alkaloids, and vitamin C.

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract comes from lemons. While lemon extract is exfoliating and antimicrobial, it can also cause skin sensitivity.

Lemons contains antioxidants, which may help with anti-aging. They are also rich in citric acid, an AHA.

And of course, lemons are rich in Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps with skin-brightening and increasing collagen production.

The acidity of lemons may work as an astringent for acne.

However, lemons can also cause skin sensitivity due to its limonene content. It can also increase photosensitivity, or sensitivity to the sun.

This ingredient is also used to add a lemon scent to products.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.

Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.

Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.

A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract comes from the bilberry plant. This plant is native to Eurasia.

Bilberry contains antioxidant compounds called anthocyanins. Anthocyanins help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Fighting off these molecules can help reduce signs of aging.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract also helps reduce irritation.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  4. 04Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  5. 05It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  6. 06Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  7. 07A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  8. 08Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  9. 09The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  10. 10Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  11. 11Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.
  12. 12As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.
  13. 13Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.
  14. 14Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
  15. 15It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
  16. 16The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
  17. 17The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
  18. 18Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
  19. 19One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
  20. 20This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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