The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Plants are Purple Pro-Aging Super Serum

The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Plants are Purple Pro-Aging Super Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate 1%

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Acer Saccharum Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Allantoin

Sodium Levulinate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Anisate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate 1%, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Zinc PCA

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Citric Acid

Xylitol

Glucose

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Tuber Melanosporum Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Zinc PCA, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Citric Acid, Xylitol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glucose, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium levulinate is the a sodium salt of Levulinic Acid. Oncedissolved in an aqueous solution, the two ingredients become identical. It is usually derived from renewable plant sources like corn starch or sugarcane.

In skincare, it mostly acts as a skin conditioning agent that keeps skin soft and hydrated. It also acts as a preservative booster by inhibiting the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria.

It's often paired with Sodium Anisate as the two create a broad-spectrum preservative system that is popular in "natural" formulations.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be non-irritated and there are no restrictions for use in EU cosmetics. The FDA also allows this ingredient to be used as a food-grade flavoring agent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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