The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Sephora Collection Super Glow Serum With Vitamin C+E

The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Versus Sephora Collection Super Glow Serum With Vitamin C+E

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate 1%

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Acer Saccharum Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Allantoin

Sodium Levulinate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Anisate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate 1%, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Triethyl Citrate

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Glyceryl Caprylate

Phytic Acid

Citric Acid

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Tocopherol

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Glucose

Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Water, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Triethyl Citrate, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Metabisulfite, Tocopherol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glucose, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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