Skin science article
The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Revolution Beauty Multi Acid Peeling Solution
The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Revolution Beauty Multi Acid Peeling Solution This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing trea
The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Revolution Beauty Multi Acid Peeling Solution
This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This smoothing treatment is formulated around Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycolic Acid
Glycerin
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Polysorbate 20
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Acetum
Sodium Hydroxide
Propanediol
Xanthan Gum
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Lactobacillus
Phenoxyethanol
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Maltodextrin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
Acer Saccharum Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Phytic Acid
Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Water, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Acetum, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Lactobacillus, Phenoxyethanol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Acer Saccharum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phytic Acid, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Lactic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Salicylic Acid
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Disodium EDTA
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Water, Lactic Acid, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
We don't have a description for Acer Saccharum Extract yet.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is more commonly known as the bitter orange. Native to Southeast Asia, this extract is commonly found in both cosmetics and foods.
The bitter orange possesses antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
It can also be mildly exfoliating due to the citric acid, an AHA.
Citrus fruits are rich in flavonoids, alkaloids, and vitamin C.
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract comes from lemons. While lemon extract is exfoliating and antimicrobial, it can also cause skin sensitivity.
Lemons contains antioxidants, which may help with anti-aging. They are also rich in citric acid, an AHA.
And of course, lemons are rich in Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps with skin-brightening and increasing collagen production.
The acidity of lemons may work as an astringent for acne.
However, lemons can also cause skin sensitivity due to its limonene content. It can also increase photosensitivity, or sensitivity to the sun.
This ingredient is also used to add a lemon scent to products.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.
Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.
Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.
A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract comes from the bilberry plant. This plant is native to Eurasia.
Bilberry contains antioxidant compounds called anthocyanins. Anthocyanins help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Fighting off these molecules can help reduce signs of aging.
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract also helps reduce irritation.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.