Skin science article
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This acne serum is formulated around Glycolic
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum
This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.
This acne serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Betaine
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Zinc PCA
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Alcohol Denat.
Glycolic Acid
Niacinamide
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Citric Acid
PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Phytic Acid
Polyquaternium-10
Parfum
Water, Alcohol Denat., Propanediol, Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Citric Acid, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Maltodextrin, Phytic Acid, Polyquaternium-10, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a sugar created by fermenting sorbitol (which usually comes from potato starch!). It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.
Manufacturer tests show this ingredient helped reduce irritation from lactic acid by almost half and kept skin hydrated long-term as a humectant
Beyond hydration, Biosaccharide Gum-1 gives formulas a silky, non-sticky feel.
This ingredient is gentle, versatile, and suitable for all skin types.
Fun fact: Similar sugars can be found naturally in fruits like apples and pears.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!