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The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucosi

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Acid

This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Betaine

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Zinc PCA

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate 1%

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Acer Saccharum Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Allantoin

Sodium Levulinate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Anisate

Water, Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate 1%, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  4. 04Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  5. 05However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  6. 06Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  7. 07In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  8. 08While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  9. 09Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
  10. 10Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
  11. 11However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's…
  12. 12Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  13. 13The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  14. 14Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  15. 15Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  16. 16Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  17. 17Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  18. 18Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  19. 19This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  20. 20Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
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Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Bakuchiol

The Inkey List Bakuchiol The Inkey List Bakuchiol ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (Sacha Inchi Oil), Dicaprylyl Carbo…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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