Skin science article
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin. This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and refine skin texture
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin.
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Benzyl Alcohol
Polysilicone-11
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Gluconate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Silica
Dehydroacetic Acid
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Trihydroxystearin
Tin Oxide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucomannan
CI 77891
Water, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Dehydroacetic Acid, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Trihydroxystearin, Tin Oxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, CI 77891
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Azelaic Acid
Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Tocopherol
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Isoceteth-20
Polysorbate 60
Triethanolamine
Ethoxydiglycol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!