The INKEY List C-50 Blemish Night Treatment Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

The INKEY List C-50 Blemish Night Treatment Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

This acne treatment is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Salicylic Acid

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Glycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Madecassoside

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Lecithin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Propanediol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Salicylic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Madecassoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Lecithin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Dimethicone

Azelaic Acid

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Isohexadecane

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Isoceteth-20

Polysorbate 60

Triethanolamine

Ethoxydiglycol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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