Skin science article
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye moisturizer is formu
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Behenate
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Jojoba Esters
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Squalane
Caffeine
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Phospholipids
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Glycine Soja Oil
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phytate
Glycolipids
Sorbitan Isostearate
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Glycine Soja Sterols
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Tocopherol
Carbomer
Darutoside
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Darutoside, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Coco-Caprylate
Titanium Dioxide
Cocoglycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
Diethylhexyl Succinate
Lauryl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Kaolin
Bentonite
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Triheptanoin
Curcumin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Niacinamide
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Panthenol
Sorbitol
Mica
Tocopheryl Acetate
Alumina
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Silica
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil
Benzyl Acetate
Geraniol
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Citral
Linalool
Decanal
Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Tin Oxide
Iron Oxides
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Water, Coco-Caprylate, Titanium Dioxide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Triheptanoin, Curcumin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Phytate, Alumina, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Caffeine, Silica, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil, Benzyl Acetate, Geraniol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Citral, Linalool, Decanal, Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Tin Oxide, Iron Oxides, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.