Skin science article
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus No7 Youthful Eye Serum
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus No7 Youthful Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside
The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus No7 Youthful Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Retinyl Palmitate to brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Behenate
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Jojoba Esters
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Squalane
Caffeine
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Phospholipids
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Glycine Soja Oil
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phytate
Glycolipids
Sorbitan Isostearate
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Glycine Soja Sterols
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Tocopherol
Carbomer
Darutoside
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Darutoside, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Cyclopentasiloxane
Isononyl Isononanoate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Octyldodecanol
Dimethicone
Isohexadecane
Boron Nitride
Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cyclohexasiloxane
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Hydroxide
Tocopheryl Acetate
Methylparaben
Polysorbate 80
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Retinyl Palmitate
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Ethylparaben
Silica
Tetrasodium EDTA
Tetrapeptide-21
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Octyldodecanol, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Isohexadecane, Boron Nitride, Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methylparaben, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 80, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Ethylparaben, Polysorbate 20, Silica, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrapeptide-21, Tocopherol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!