Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Some By Mi Yuja Niacin 30 Days Blemish Care Serum Mask

The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Some By Mi Yuja Niacin 30 Days Blemish Care Serum Mask This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening sheet mask is formulated

The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Some By Mi Yuja Niacin 30 Days Blemish Care Serum Mask

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This brightening sheet mask is formulated around Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Behenate

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Jojoba Esters

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Squalane

Caffeine

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Phospholipids

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Glycine Soja Oil

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Phytate

Glycolipids

Sorbitan Isostearate

Butylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Glycine Soja Sterols

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Tocopherol

Carbomer

Darutoside

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Darutoside, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Niacinamide Glycolate 2%

Citrus Junos Fruit Extract

Methylpropanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Arginine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Allantoin

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Panthenol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Arbutin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glutathione

Limonene

Geraniol

Niacinamide Glycolate 2%, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Carbomer, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Arbutin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glutathione, Limonene, Geraniol

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  4. 04Propanediol
  5. 05Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
  6. 06Cetyl Alcohol
  7. 07Glyceryl Behenate
  8. 08Phenoxyethanol
  9. 09Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  10. 10Jojoba Esters
  11. 11Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
  12. 12Squalane
  13. 13Caffeine
  14. 14Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
  15. 15Phospholipids
  16. 16Ethylhexylglycerin
  17. 17Xanthan Gum
  18. 18Glycine Soja Oil
  19. 19Polysorbate 60
  20. 20Sodium Phytate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Starter Retinol Serum

The Inkey List Starter Retinol Serum The Inkey List Starter Retinol Serum ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran P…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side