Skin science article
The INKEY List Collagen Booster Versus It's Skin Collagen Nutrition Serum
The INKEY List Collagen Booster Versus It's Skin Collagen Nutrition Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating serum is formulated
The INKEY List Collagen Booster Versus It's Skin Collagen Nutrition Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Laminaria Japonica Extract to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Disodium EDTA
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Carbomer
Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Carbomer, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Glycereth-26
Cyclomethicone
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
PEG-32
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Ethoxydiglycol
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Cetyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Polyacrylate-13
Sorbitan Oleate
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyisobutene
Parfum
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dimethicone
Hydrolyzed Malt Extract
Saussurea Involucrata Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panthenol
Stearic Acid
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Triethanolamine
Xanthan Gum
BHT
CI 15985
CI 14700
Water, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Cyclomethicone, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, PEG-32, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Ethoxydiglycol, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Polyacrylate-13, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Disodium EDTA, CI 15985, CI 14700
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!