Skin science article
The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum Versus BYOMA Barrier+ Repair Treatment
The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum Versus BYOMA Barrier+ Repair Treatment This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Ectoin and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair treatment is formulated around Ectoin and
The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum Versus BYOMA Barrier+ Repair Treatment
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Ectoin and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair treatment is formulated around Ectoin and Sphingolipids to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Coconut Alkanes
Ectoin 2%
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Maltodextrin
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Panthenol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Glyceryl Stearate
Jojoba Esters
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Citrate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Citric Acid
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Glycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Triethyl Citrate
Pentylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ceramide NP
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Behenic Acid
Sodium Levulinate
Polyglycerin-3
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
Ceramide EOP
Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coconut Alkanes, Ectoin 2%, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Glycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Triethyl Citrate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Behenic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Polyglycerin-3, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Ceramide EOP
Butylene Glycol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Diisostearyl Malate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Methyl Trimethicone
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Phenyl Trimethicone
Behenyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Squalane
Persea Gratissima Oil
Sorbitan Olivate
C14-22 Alcohols
Ectoin
Dipropylene Glycol
Simethicone
Sphingolipids
Arachidyl Glucoside
1,2-Hexanediol
Glucose
Polyacrylate-13
Hydroxyacetophenone
Palmitic Acid
Arachidyl Alcohol
C11-13 Isoparaffin
Stearic Acid
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Isohexadecane
Caprylyl Glycol
Dimethiconol
Allantoin
Carbomer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Phytate
Cyanocobalamin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Tocopherol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Diisostearyl Malate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Methyl Trimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenyl Trimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Persea Gratissima Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, C14-22 Alcohols, Ectoin, Dipropylene Glycol, Simethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sphingolipids, Arachidyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glucose, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyacetophenone, Palmitic Acid, Arachidyl Alcohol, C11-13 Isoparaffin, Stearic Acid, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Allantoin, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Cyanocobalamin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.
This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.
When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.
Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:
A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.
Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.
In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:
Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.
Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.
The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!