Skin science article
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Coconut Alkanes
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Dimethicone
Ectoin
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Ubiquinone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Phytate
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Dextran
Tripeptide-1
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coconut Alkanes, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ubiquinone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Dextran, Tripeptide-1
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Trehalose
Fructose
Glucose
Maltose
Urea
Sodium PCA
PCA
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Acacia Senegal Gum
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Ethoxydiglycol
Sodium Benzoate
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!