Skin science article
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Codium Tomentosum Extract
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Tromethamine
Xanthan Gum
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Maris Aqua
Parfum
Adenosine
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Disodium EDTA
Trehalose
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Zinc PCA
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Ceramide As
Ceramide Ns
Ascorbic Acid
Citric Acid
Ceramide AP
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Phytosphingosine
Madecassic Acid
Magnesium PCA
Copper Tripeptide-1
Serine
Sucrose
Urea
Glycine
Calcium Chloride
Potassium Hydroxide
Ornithine
Maris Sal
Alanine
Magnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
Aspartic Acid
Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maris Aqua, Parfum, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Disodium EDTA, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Zinc PCA, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide AP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Madecassic Acid, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Serine, Sucrose, Urea, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Hydroxide, Ornithine, Maris Sal, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.