Skin science article
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Aveeno Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum For Sensitive Skin
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Aveeno Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum For Sensitive Skin This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum is formul
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Aveeno Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum For Sensitive Skin
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Flour and Avena Sativa Kernel Oil to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chlorphenesin
Dimethicone
Succinoglycan
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Dimethiconol
Sodium Hydroxide
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Chlorphenesin, Dimethicone, Succinoglycan, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!