Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus L'Oreal Skin Expert Hydra Genius Aloe Water Dry & Sensitive Skin

The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus L'Oreal Skin Expert Hydra Genius Aloe Water Dry & Sensitive Skin This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair m

The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus L'Oreal Skin Expert Hydra Genius Aloe Water Dry & Sensitive Skin

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hyaluronic Acid

Carbomer

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Alcohol Denat.

Dimethicone

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Silanetriol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Hydroxide

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Disodium EDTA

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Xanthan Gum

T-Butyl Alcohol

Betula Alba Juice

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Octyldodecanol

Hexylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Potassium Sorbate

Sorbic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

CI 42090

Linalool

Limonene

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Silanetriol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Betula Alba Juice, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 42090, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Mandelic Acid
  4. 04Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
  5. 05Cetearyl Alcohol
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Sodium Hydroxide
  8. 08Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  9. 09Glyceryl Stearate
  10. 10Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
  11. 11Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  12. 12Phenoxyethanol
  13. 13Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
  14. 14Benzyl Alcohol
  15. 15Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  16. 16Copernicia Cerifera Cera
  17. 17Retinol
  18. 18Polysorbate 20
  19. 19Ethylhexylglycerin
  20. 20Dehydroacetic Acid
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Squalane Oil

The Inkey List Squalane Oil The Inkey List Squalane Oil ingredients explained: Squalane Show all ingredients by function Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient 0, 1 goodie It seems t…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side