Skin science article
The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser Versus Heveblue Black Yuja Bean Milk Cleanser
The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser Versus Heveblue Black Yuja Bean Milk Cleanser This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Gly
The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser Versus Heveblue Black Yuja Bean Milk Cleanser
This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Betaine
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Pentylene Glycol
Propanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydroxyacetophenone
Oryza Sativa
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetearyl Olivate
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Olivate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hydroxide
Sorbitan Oleate
Xanthan Gum
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Inulin
Polyquaternium-10
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyacetophenone, Oryza Sativa, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Inulin, Polyquaternium-10, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin
Citrus Junos Fruit Water
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Glycine Soja Peptide
Avena Sativa Peptide
Glycine Max Polypeptide
Triticum Aestivum Peptide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Lactococcus Ferment
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Smilax Glabra Root Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Stellaria Media Extract
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Glycoproteins
Maltodextrin
Tromethamine
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyquaternium-51
Cyanocobalamin
Sorbitan Stearate
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Citrus Junos Fruit Water, Water, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Glycine Soja Peptide, Avena Sativa Peptide, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Smilax Glabra Root Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Glycoproteins, Maltodextrin, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Pentylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Propanediol, Cyanocobalamin, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Disodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.