Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium H

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Methylpropanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Trehalose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Centella Asiatica Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium PCA

Squalane

Isostearyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol Cocoate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Butylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Xanthan Gum

Ethylcellulose

Phenyl Trimethicone

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Methylpropanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Betaine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Isostearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylcellulose, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
  4. 04It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
  5. 05The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
  6. 06The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
  7. 07Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
  8. 08One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
  9. 09This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
  10. 10On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
  11. 11Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
  12. 12You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damag…
  13. 13Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
  14. 14It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
  15. 15This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
  16. 16This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  17. 17In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
  18. 18Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
  19. 19Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
  20. 20Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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