The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Always Be Pure Ultra Calming Cream

The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Always Be Pure Ultra Calming Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Maltodextrin

Pentapeptide-48

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water

Hydroxyacetophenone

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Dimethicone

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyacrylate-13

Arginine

Polyisobutene

Panthenol

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Adenosine

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Disodium EDTA

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Amber Powder

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Erythritol

Bisabolol

Madecassoside

Polyquaternium-51

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Asiaticoside

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Codium Fragile Extract

Ulva Lactuca Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Laminaria Cloustoni Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract

Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, Carbomer, Arginine, Polyisobutene, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Amber Powder, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Erythritol, Bisabolol, Madecassoside, Polyquaternium-51, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiaticoside, Hizikia Fusiforme Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Codium Fragile Extract, Ulva Lactuca Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Laminaria Cloustoni Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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