The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Grand Millésime Radiance Revitalizing Face Cream

The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Grand Millésime Radiance Revitalizing Face Cream

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Maltodextrin

Pentapeptide-48

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

Propylene Glycol

Amniotic Fluid

Stearic Acid

Polysorbate 40

Palmitic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Pentylene Glycol

PEG-2 Stearate

Tea-Stearate

Alcohol Denat.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Myrtus Communis Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Yeast Extract

Hydrolyzed Silk

Allantoin

Urea

Serine

Rhizobian Gum

Tea-Lactate

Citric Acid

Sodium Lactate

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Magnesium Chloride

Niacinamide

Vinegar

Lactic Acid

Gluconolactone

Pyridoxine Hcl

Thiamine Hcl

Potassium Sorbate

Sorbitol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Alcohol

Sorbic Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Amniotic Fluid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 40, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-2 Stearate, Tea-Stearate, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Hyaluronate, Myrtus Communis Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Yeast Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Allantoin, Urea, Serine, Rhizobian Gum, Tea-Lactate, Citric Acid, Sodium Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Magnesium Chloride, Niacinamide, Vinegar, Lactic Acid, Gluconolactone, Pyridoxine Hcl, Thiamine Hcl, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Alcohol, Sorbic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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