The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream

The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Maltodextrin

Pentapeptide-48

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%

Propanediol

Isopentyldiol

Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Niacinamide

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Cyclohexasiloxane

1,2-Hexanediol

PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Adenosine

Allantoin

Trehalose

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Sodium Lactate

Gossypium Herbaceum Extract

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment

Glycine

Alanine

Lecithin

Royal Jelly Extract

Milk Extract

Polysorbate 20

Propolis Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Lactose

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Threonine

Proline

Phenylalanine

Histidine

Hyaluronic Acid

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Phospholipids

Phytosphingosine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Lactic Acid

Cholesterol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Madecassoside

Tocopherol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Squalane

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Hexapeptide-11

Phytosterols

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Sodium Lactate, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine, Alanine, Lecithin, Royal Jelly Extract, Milk Extract, Polysorbate 20, Propolis Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lactose, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Hyaluronic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Lactic Acid, Cholesterol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Phytosterols, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Disodium EDTA, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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