The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Philosophy Purity Made Simple Oil Free Mattifying Moisturizer

The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Versus Philosophy Purity Made Simple Oil Free Mattifying Moisturizer

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Panthenol to balance excess oil and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Maltodextrin

Pentapeptide-48

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract

Polysorbate 80

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Panthenol

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Linalool

Ascorbyl Glucoside

PEG-8

Lactobacillus Ferment

Tocopherol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Alcohol Denat.

Geraniol

Pantolactone

BHT

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Citronellol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract

Benzyl Benzoate

Limonene

Angelica Archangelica Root Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract

Citric Acid

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Xanthan Gum

Ascorbic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Sclerotium Gum

Sorbic Acid

Adenosine Phosphate

CI 19140

CI 15985

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Linalool, Ascorbyl Glucoside, PEG-8, Lactobacillus Ferment, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Alcohol Denat., Geraniol, Pantolactone, BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citronellol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, Sorbic Acid, Adenosine Phosphate, CI 19140, CI 15985

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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