Skin science article
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Polyglutamic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Trehalose and
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Polyglutamic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Trehalose and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
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Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone
Glycerin
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-11
Phenoxyethanol
Polyglutamic Acid
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Propanediol
Coco-Glucoside
Sodium Benzoate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polysorbate 80
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Decyl Glucoside
Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Sorbitan Oleate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Trehalose
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Ethoxydiglycol
Triheptanoin
Arginine PCA
Diglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Collagen Amino Acids
Glycine Soja Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil
Santalum Album Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Phospholipids
Carnosine
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Glycolipids
Glycine Soja Sterols
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sclerotium Gum
Polyquaternium-80
Didecyldimonium Chloride
Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract
Xanthan Gum
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Phytic Acid
Polysorbate 20
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Trehalose, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Triheptanoin, Arginine PCA, Diglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen Amino Acids, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Carnosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sclerotium Gum, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.
This ingredient has moisturizing properties due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.
Polyglutamic Acid is made up many glutamic acids chained together. It is created from bacterial fermentation.
This ingredient is an effective skin hydrator and may help speed up wound healing. As a humectant, it draws and holds water to the skin. This ingredient is often compared to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Similarly to hyaluronic acid, it can vary in molecular weights. This means polyglutamic acid is capable of bringing hydration to lower levels of the skin.
Fun fact: Polyglutamic Acid is found in the Japanese food, natto. It is also being used in cancer treatment studies.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!