The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Glow Recipe Avocado Ceramide Recovery Serum

The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Glow Recipe Avocado Ceramide Recovery Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Polyglutamic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone

Glycerin

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Polysilicone-11

Phenoxyethanol

Polyglutamic Acid

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Propanediol

Coco-Glucoside

Sodium Benzoate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 80

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Decyl Glucoside

Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Sorbitan Oleate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Jojoba Esters

Persea Gratissima Oil

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Allantoin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Bisabolol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Boswellia Serrata Extract

Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Phytate

Cetyl Alcohol

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Behenic Acid

Cholesterol

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Sodium Carbonate

Sodium Chloride

CI 75810

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rose Extract

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Dextran

Hydroxyacetophenone

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ceteareth-25

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Jojoba Esters, Persea Gratissima Oil, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Phytate, Cetyl Alcohol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Behenic Acid, Cholesterol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, CI 75810, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dextran, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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