The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Skincyclopedia 3% Polyglutamic Acid Face Serum

The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum Versus Skincyclopedia 3% Polyglutamic Acid Face Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Polyglutamic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone

Glycerin

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Polysilicone-11

Phenoxyethanol

Polyglutamic Acid

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Propanediol

Coco-Glucoside

Sodium Benzoate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 80

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Decyl Glucoside

Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Sorbitan Oleate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Propylene Glycol

PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether

Water, Propylene Glycol, Polyglutamic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.

This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.

This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polyglutamic Acid is made up many glutamic acids chained together. It is created from bacterial fermentation.

This ingredient is an effective skin hydrator and may help speed up wound healing. As a humectant, it draws and holds water to the skin. This ingredient is often compared to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Similarly to hyaluronic acid, it can vary in molecular weights. This means polyglutamic acid is capable of bringing hydration to lower levels of the skin.

Fun fact: Polyglutamic Acid is found in the Japanese food, natto. It is also being used in cancer treatment studies.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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