The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner Versus Paula's Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA

The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner Versus Paula's Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA

This smoothing toner is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Gluconolactone 3%

Niacinamide 3%

Pentylene Glycol

Glycerin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Propanediol, Gluconolactone 3%, Niacinamide 3%, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Aminomethyl Propanol

Adenosine

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Peucedanum Graveolens Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Adenosine, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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