The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution Versus Sesderma Azelac RU Liposomal Serum

The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution Versus Sesderma Azelac RU Liposomal Serum

This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and clear breakouts.

This brightening serum is formulated around 4-Butylresorcinol and Retinol to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Propanediol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Glycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Polylysine

Water, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Polylysine

Propylene Glycol

Lecithin

Alcohol

Polymethyl Methacrylate

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

4-Butylresorcinol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Retinol

Niacin

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Morus Alba Root Extract

Diacetyl Boldine

PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone

Sodium Cholate

Polysorbate 20

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Tocopheryl Acetate

BHT

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Chloride

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

BHA

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Triisopropanolamine

Hydrochloric Acid

Parfum

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Citral

Coumarin

Eugenol

Limonene

Isoeugenol

Water, Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Alcohol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 4-Butylresorcinol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Retinol, Azelaic Acid, Niacin, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Morus Alba Root Extract, Diacetyl Boldine, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, Sodium Cholate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, BHA, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Triisopropanolamine, Hydrochloric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Limonene, Isoeugenol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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