Skin science article
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution Versus Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution Versus Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This wash off mask is formulat
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution Versus Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Glycolic Acid
Water
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
Sodium Hydroxide
Daucus Carota Sativa Extract
Propanediol
Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Salicylic Acid
Lactic Acid
Tartaric Acid
Citric Acid
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Polysorbate 20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Ethylhexylglycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Glycolic Acid, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Salicylic Acid 0.5%
Kaolin
Bentonite
Titanium Dioxide
Butylene Glycol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetyl Esters
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Illite
Tapioca Starch
Zea Mays Starch
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Zinc PCA
Copper PCA
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Chloride
Phenoxyethanol
Salicylic Acid 0.5%, Water, Kaolin, Bentonite, Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Esters, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Glycerin, Illite, Tapioca Starch, Zea Mays Starch, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.