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The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Versus Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Versus Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This pore-care

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Versus Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier

This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This pore-care treatment is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alpha-Arbutin

Propanediol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ergothioneine

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Metabisulfite

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Ethoxydiglycol

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Alpha-Arbutin, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ergothioneine, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Metabisulfite, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Panthenol

Salicylic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Callus

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract

Ceramide NP

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Niacinamide

Phytic Acid

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Adenosine

Ubiquinone

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sucrose Stearate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Carbomer

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Callus, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Niacinamide, Phytic Acid, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Adenosine, Ubiquinone, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethoxydiglycol (aka Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) is one of the cosmetic world's quiet problem solvers.

In a formula, it is a solvent that dissolves tricky ingredients that don't want to mix in and helps spread ingredients evenly across your skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling

This makes it great for hard-to-dissolve actives like vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and self-tanner DHA.

It also has mild humectant and penetration enhancer abilities so it can help some actives absorb a little deeper.

The penetration boost is backed by lab research: studies using human skin samples found it improved how well an active dissolves into the upper layer of skin rather than tearing down your skin barrier. Reviews of its mechanism also describe it interacting gently with the lipids and water in your outermost layer of skin.

Just know this penetration-enhancing effect is not universal. It helps a lot in some formulas and did very little in others (so the benefit really depends on the specific product).

Safety-wise, the evidence is reassuring. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it and concluded it's safe for use in cosmetics and recognized it as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic in skincare.

Typical leave-on skincare usage lands around 1-10%. The EU has sets caps of 2.6% in non-spray products, 10% in rinse-offs, 7% in oxidative hair dye, and 5% in non-oxidative hair dye.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
  4. 04It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
  5. 05Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
  6. 06A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
  7. 07Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
  8. 08One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
  9. 09Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
  10. 10Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  11. 11This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  12. 12On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  13. 13One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  14. 14Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  15. 15You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  16. 16Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  17. 17Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  18. 18Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  19. 19Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  20. 20This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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