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Skin science article

The Ordinary Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

The Ordinary Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Ergothioneine to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness. This brightening serum is formulate

The Ordinary Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Ergothioneine to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ergothioneine

Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Heptapeptide-6

Tocotrienols

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Sphingomonas Ferment Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Bixa Orellana Seed Extract

Glycerin

Isoceteth-20

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ergothioneine, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Heptapeptide-6, Tocotrienols, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Glycerin, Isoceteth-20, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
  7. 07In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
  8. 08Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
  9. 09"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
  10. 10Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  11. 11So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  12. 12You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream

The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Distearat…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Bakuchiol

The Inkey List Bakuchiol The Inkey List Bakuchiol ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (Sacha Inchi Oil), Dicaprylyl Carbo…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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