Skin science article
The Ordinary Serum Foundation Versus Westman Atelier Vital Skincare Complexion Drops
The Ordinary Serum Foundation Versus Westman Atelier Vital Skincare Complexion Drops What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Cyclopentasiloxane Water Caprylyl Methicone Coconut Alkanes Trimethylsiloxysilicate PEG-9 Polydimethyl
The Ordinary Serum Foundation Versus Westman Atelier Vital Skincare Complexion Drops
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
Water
Caprylyl Methicone
Coconut Alkanes
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone
Dipropylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Hectorite
Sodium Chloride
Hexyl Laurate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Alumina
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
CI 77891
Iron Oxides
Tin Oxide
Aluminum Hydroxide
CI 77163
Mica
Magnesium Stearate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Caprylyl Methicone, Coconut Alkanes, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hectorite, Sodium Chloride, Hexyl Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, Tin Oxide, Aluminum Hydroxide, CI 77163, Mica, Magnesium Stearate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Squalane
Persea Gratissima Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Sorbitan Isostearate
Propanediol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Bisabolol
Glycine Soja Oil
Gossypium Hirsutum Seed Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Zea Mays Germ Oil
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Lysine
Magnesium Chloride
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Squalane, Water, Persea Gratissima Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Mica, Pentylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Bisabolol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glycine Soja Oil, Gossypium Hirsutum Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Tin Oxide, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium Chloride, Tocopherol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aluminum Hydroxide is a form of aluminum. It can be naturally found in nature as the mineral gibbsite. In cosmetics, Aluminum Hydroxide is used as a colorant, pH adjuster, and absorbent.
As a colorant, Aluminum Hydroxide may add opacity, or reduce the transparency. Aluminum hydroxide is contains both basic and acidic properties.
According to manufacturers, this ingredient is an emollient and humectant. This means it helps hydrate the skin.
In medicine, this ingredient is used to help relieve heartburn and help heal ulcers.
There is currently no credible scientific evidence linking aluminum hydroxide in cosmetics to increased cancer risk.
Major health organizations allow the use of aluminum hydroxide in personal care products and have not flagged it as a carcinogenic risk at typical usage levels.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a plant-derived, oil-soluble emulsifier. It keeps water-in-oil emulsions stable to prevent the ingredients from separating.
On the safety front, it's considered non-irritating and well-tolerated (it can even be found in formulations for baby skin).
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because research has shown that the Malassezia species can grow in the presence of fatty acid esters with chain lengths above C12 (and this one is C18).
While it does have a comedogenic rating of 4, the comedogenic rating scale was developed from rabbit ear models which has limited clinical relevance to human skin. Studies also show that comedogenic ingredients cannot predict how the overall formula will behave on human skin.
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Tin Oxide is an inorganic oxide used to add opacity and volume to a product. In nature, it is already found in mineral form. The main ore of tin is an opaque and shiny mineral called casseterite.
Tin Oxide helps remove translucency in a product, or make it more opaque. Besides adding opacity, tin oxide is used for bulking to add volume.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.