Skin science article
The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm Versus The INKEY List Tripeptide Plumping Lip Balm
The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm Versus The INKEY List Tripeptide Plumping Lip Balm This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium PCA to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. This anti-aging lip moisturizer is
The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm Versus The INKEY List Tripeptide Plumping Lip Balm
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium PCA to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Squalane
Sorbitan Olivate
Water
Trihydroxystearin
Betaine
Jojoba Esters
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Sodium PCA
PCA
Serine
Alanine
Arginine
Proline
Glycine
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Sodium Lactate
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Polyglycerin-3
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Tocopherol
Calcium Gluconate
Gluconolactone
Sodium Benzoate
Squalane, Sorbitan Olivate, Water, Trihydroxystearin, Betaine, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium PCA, PCA, Serine, Alanine, Arginine, Proline, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Sodium Lactate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Tocopherol, Calcium Gluconate, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides
Glyceryl Rosinate
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Candelilla Cera
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Glyceryl Behenate
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Tribehenin
Sorbitan Isostearate
Portulaca Pilosa Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Sucrose Cocoate
Brassica Alba Sprout Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Glucomannan
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Glyceryl Rosinate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Candelilla Cera, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Squalane, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Behenate, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Trihydroxystearin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sucrose Cocoate, Brassica Alba Sprout Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Trihydroxystearin is what you get when you fully hydrogenate castor oil into a waxy, fine powder.
It's mostly a behind-the-scenes texture enhancer that's especially good at "thixotropic" thing where the product stays thick but applies nicely.
Because of its structure, it also acts as a mild skin conditioning emollient that helps soften skin while preventing moisture loss.
Safety studies show it to be safe and non-irritation in clinical tests. It's typically used in concentrations up to 5%.
Since its an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can potentially feed on. This makes it not fungal-acne safe.