Skin science article
The Plant Base Time Stop Peptide Eye Cream Versus The Plant Base Time Stop Collagen Ampoule
The Plant Base Time Stop Peptide Eye Cream Versus The Plant Base Time Stop Collagen Ampoule This eye moisturizer is formulated around Honey Extract to hydrate skin. This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Portulaca Oleracea Extract and Adenosine to soften
The Plant Base Time Stop Peptide Eye Cream Versus The Plant Base Time Stop Collagen Ampoule
This eye moisturizer is formulated around Honey Extract to hydrate skin.
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Portulaca Oleracea Extract and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Rose Extract 36%
Honey Extract 10%
Glycerin
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Brassica Campestris Sterols
PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol
Cholesterol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol
Ceteth-3
Ceteth-5
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyglutamic Acid
Ceramide NP
Stearic Acid
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Oleic Acid
Adenosine
Propolis Extract
Royal Jelly Extract
Rosa Damascena Callus Culture Extract
Rosa Damascena Phytoplacenta Culture Extract
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Rose Flower Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Water
Ethylhexylglycerin
Rh-Polypeptide-64
Rose Extract 36%, Honey Extract 10%, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris Sterols, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Cholesterol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, Ceramide NP, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oleic Acid, Adenosine, Propolis Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Rosa Damascena Callus Culture Extract, Rosa Damascena Phytoplacenta Culture Extract, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Rose Flower Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rh-Polypeptide-64
Portulaca Oleracea Extract 76%
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Beta-Glucan
Artemisia Tridentata Extract
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Panthenol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Allantoin
Acetyl Glutamine
Sodium Polyacrylate
PPG-26-Buteth-26
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Dextrin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Caramel
Laureth-7
Ethyl Hexanediol
Retinyl Palmitate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pantolactone
Polyacrylamide
PEG-5 Soy Sterol
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Silica
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Portulaca Oleracea Extract 76%, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Glycerin, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Beta-Glucan, Artemisia Tridentata Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sodium Polyacrylate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dextrin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Laureth-7, Ethyl Hexanediol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Polyacrylamide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-5 Soy Sterol, Cholesterol, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Ceteth-5, Ceteth-3, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
We don't have a description for Ceteth-3 yet.
We don't have a description for Ceteth-5 yet.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of the Persimmon. It is native to China, India, and Korea. Persimmon leaves have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
The leaves of the persimmon tree contain triterpenoids, tannins, and ursolic acids. These components are help sooth the skin due to their antioxidant activity.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
This ingredient is also known as Macadamia Seed Oil. It's an emollient with a fatty acid profile that closely mirrors the skin's own lipid makeup.
The palmitoleic acid content is especially notable as it's somewhat rare in plant oils. Palmitoleic acid is something your skin already makes naturally. It helps keep cell membranes structured and plays a role in fighting off harmful microbes.
This palmitoleic content is also part of why macademia seed oil absorbs quickly and doesn't leave much of a greasy residue.
It also contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, and phytosterols that can help reduce redness.
In vitro research has shown the oil to have meaningful antioxidant activity, protect fats in the skin from oxidative damage, and slow down the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.
A 2024 clinical study found it effective at improving skin hydratino and reducing wrinkle appearance when formulated into nanoemulsions.
Because it carries oleic acid (C18) and palmitic acid (C16), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast metabolizes in the C11-24 chain length range.
You'll also see this ingredient listed as: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil.
This is the same ingredient; M. ternifolia is an older INCI naming convention for the edible macadamia nut, while M. integrifolia is the species actually cultivated for oil production. Both names refer to the same oil.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!