Skin science article
Theramid Copper Peptide Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
Theramid Copper Peptide Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-agin
Theramid Copper Peptide Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
Betaine
Isododecane
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Copper Tripeptide-1
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Glycerin
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Magnesium Sulfate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Acetyl Glutamine
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Propylene Carbonate
Lecithin
Caprylyl Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Dextran
Tocopherol
Acetic Acid
Lactic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Benzoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Betaine, Isododecane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Dextran, Tocopherol, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caffeine
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cetearyl Olivate
Polysorbate 60
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Teprenone
Phospholipids
Hyaluronic Acid
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Sphingolipids
Astaxanthin
Bisabolol
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Honey
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ceramide NP
Phenyl T-Butylnitrone
Glutathione
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Ergothioneine
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Sorbitan Olivate
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
CI 77891
Isohexadecane
Maltodextrin
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Tributyl Citrate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Glycolate
Polysorbate 20
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!