Theramid Copper Peptide Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

Theramid Copper Peptide Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Betaine

Isododecane

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Copper Tripeptide-1

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Glycerin

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Acetyl Glutamine

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Propylene Carbonate

Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Dextran

Tocopherol

Acetic Acid

Lactic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Benzoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Betaine, Isododecane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Dextran, Tocopherol, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Jojoba Esters

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethyl Macadamiate

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Tricaprylin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Ceramide Ng

Malic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Pentylene Glycol

Silica

Sodium Lactate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phosphoric Acid

Sodium Chloride

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Water, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Tricaprylin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tocopherol, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, Sodium Lactate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.

This peptide is a lab-made "messenger peptide" that differs from other peptides; it's mostly known for nudging skin pigmentation upward rather than smoothing wrinkles like other peptides.

It works by mimicing parts of the alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone signaling pathway by telling pigment making cells (melanocytes) to make more melanin.

Our bodies produce melanin in response to UV so this peptide is marketed for supporting tanning and has also been explored in hypopigmentation contexts like vitiligo.

Though there is some human data, it's doesn't have the best "single-ingredient" evidence.

For example, an 8 week clinical study in middle-aged Chinese women found using an essence with 0.02% acetyl hexapeptide-1 + retinol improved photoaging related measures. Since it was a combo product, you can't attribute the results to the peptide alone.

In vitiligo research a topical cream with acetyl hexapeptide-1 plus other actives was reported to support repigmentation in some areas. Again, this was a combo product so it's not a pure “acetyl hexapeptide-1 did this” conclusion.

If you're trying to fade hyperpigmentation like melasma and sun spots, this may not be the ingredient for you. Again, its generally positioned as a pro-pigment / tanning support peptide.

Peptides are usually well tolerated but be sure to patch test if you're cautious or have extra sensitive skin.

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract is an antioxidant.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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