Skin science article
Tirtir SOS Serum Versus Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum
Tirtir SOS Serum Versus Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Opuntia
Tirtir SOS Serum Versus Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Arginine
Carbomer
Caprylyl Glycol
Betaine
Allantoin
Panthenol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyglutamic Acid
Natto Gum
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Betaine, Allantoin, Panthenol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, Natto Gum, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Pentylene Glycol
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Synthetic Sapphire
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract
Sodium PCA
Glutathione
Malachite Extract
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Lactate
Propanediol
Polysorbate 20
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Synthetic Sapphire, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract, Sodium PCA, Glutathione, Malachite Extract, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyglutamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Propanediol, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Polyglutamic Acid is made up many glutamic acids chained together. It is created from bacterial fermentation.
This ingredient is an effective skin hydrator and may help speed up wound healing. As a humectant, it draws and holds water to the skin. This ingredient is often compared to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Similarly to hyaluronic acid, it can vary in molecular weights. This means polyglutamic acid is capable of bringing hydration to lower levels of the skin.
Fun fact: Polyglutamic Acid is found in the Japanese food, natto. It is also being used in cancer treatment studies.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!