TONYMOLY Collagen Peptide V Fit Gua Sha Cream Versus K-Secret Seoul 1988 Cream : Retinal Liposome 1% + Fermented Rice

TONYMOLY Collagen Peptide V Fit Gua Sha Cream Versus K-Secret Seoul 1988 Cream : Retinal Liposome 1% + Fermented Rice

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinal and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycereth-26

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

PEG-100 Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Parfum

Tromethamine

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Adenosine

Polysorbate 60

Vitex Agnus Castus Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Sorbitan Isostearate

Panthenol

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Glutathione

Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Parfum, Tromethamine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Adenosine, Polysorbate 60, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Panthenol, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glutathione

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Carbomer

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyisobutene

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate

Disodium EDTA

Allantoin

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Cholesterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Sorbitan Oleate

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Retinal

Silica

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Tocopherol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Cnidium Officinale Root Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Bakuchiol

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Adenosine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Retinal, Silica, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Tocopherol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Bakuchiol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Arctium Lappa Root Extract is from the burdock plant. It is a botanical extract with skin conditioning and soothing properties.

Burdock root contains polyphenols that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. This can help explain why it's used to calm irritated or red skin.

Evidence in humans is limited to the non-root parts of this plant; topical arctium fruit extract showed improvements in dermal extracellular matrix metabolism and visible wrinkles.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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