Skin science article
Topicals Faded Brightening + Clearing Serum Versus Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner
Topicals Faded Brightening + Clearing Serum Versus Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing toner is formulated ar
Topicals Faded Brightening + Clearing Serum Versus Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This smoothing toner is formulated around Lactic Acid and Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Tranexamic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Arbutin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Behenate
Kojic Acid
Oxidized Glutathione
Phenoxyethanol
Ceteareth-20
Lecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Zinc Ricinoleate
Arginine Hcl
Azelaic Acid
Squalane
Ceteareth-12
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Palmitate
Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytic Acid
Allantoin
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Melatonin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tranexamic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Arbutin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Kojic Acid, Oxidized Glutathione, Phenoxyethanol, Ceteareth-20, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Zinc Ricinoleate, Arginine Hcl, Azelaic Acid, Squalane, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytic Acid, Allantoin, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Melatonin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Lactic Acid
Polysorbate 20
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract
Xanthan Gum
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Propanediol
Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-30
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Acer Saccharum Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate
Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Geranium Maculatum Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Gardenia Taitensis Flower Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Limonene
Citral
Hydroxycitronellol
Water, Lactic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Xanthan Gum, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Propanediol, Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-30, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Gardenia Taitensis Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Limonene, Citral, Hydroxycitronellol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!