Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Pyunkang Yul Ultimate Calming Solution Ampoule

Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Pyunkang Yul Ultimate Calming Solution Ampoule This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming ampoule

Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Pyunkang Yul Ultimate Calming Solution Ampoule

This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming ampoule is formulated around Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Ectoin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

2,3-Butanediol

Trehalose

Betaine

Propanediol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Madecassoside

Madecassic Acid

Ceramide NP

Beta-Glucan

Malachite Extract

Cholesterol

Pentylene Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Ectoin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, 2,3-Butanediol, Trehalose, Betaine, Propanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Malachite Extract, Cholesterol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Methylpropanediol

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Bark/Sap Extract

Mentha Arvensis Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Arginine

Citric Acid

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Gluconolactone

Mentha Piperita Oil

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide AP

Hyaluronic Acid

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Limonene

Citronellol

Linalool

Geraniol

Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Bark/Sap Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Mentha Arvensis Extract, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Allantoin, Gluconolactone, Mentha Piperita Oil, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceramide NP, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Limonene, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Madecassic Acid is one of the four star actives in Centella Asiatica. In skincare, it earns its keep as a calming and repairing ingredient.

It works through the same core pathways as the rest of the centella family.

First, it turns down inflammation so it helps with things like redness and general upset skin.

Second, it acts as an antioxidant which means it helps protect skin from daily stress and damage.

And third, it nudges the skin to make more collagen and rebuild its support structure.

That combination is why the whole Centella family is known for calming skin, strengthening the barrier, fading redness, and giving anti-aging benefits.

It's worth being honest about the evidence here; a lot of the strongest data is on the full extract or a Madecassoside/Asiaticoside rather than Madecassic Acid alone. Reviewers also note more long-term clinical trials are needed to confirm the full potential.

Concentration-wise, this ingredient is rarely used pure and usually shows up as part of a standardized centella extract where reported content ranges from 0.02-3.06%.

Finished products typically run somewhere in the 0.1-10% range depending on the format.

In real-world tolerance tests, a repeat-insult patch test on an eye lotion with 0.2% Centella extract showed no irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in 54 subjects. And a mascara with 0.5% Madecassoside caused neither irritation nor sensitization in 109 subjects.

Allergy risk is very low, but not zero. Centella and its constituents are classified as weak contact sensitizers and some rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis exist.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.

A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.

A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.

More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  4. 04Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  5. 05Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  6. 06Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  7. 07This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  8. 08Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  9. 09Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  10. 10Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
  11. 11Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
  12. 12For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regul…
  13. 13The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
  14. 14For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
  15. 15One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
  16. 16Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
  17. 17Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
  18. 18The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
  19. 19Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  20. 20It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Oda Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Oda Hyaluronic Acid Serum Oda Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin S…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01When and How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Routine

Products with hyaluronic acid can be used in the morning or at night (or both!). Applying the hydrating ingredient at night will restore your skin’s resilience while you sleep, and applying it in the morning will leave your skin feeling plump, hydrated and ready for makeup. Hyaluronic acid is great at providing topical hydration when it’s introduced into a balanced skincare routine. According to Dr. King, it’s important to pair your hyaluronic acid products with an emollient or occlusive moisturizer to lock in hydration.

Source · www.skincare.com
02How to Apply Face Serums

Skincare rules can get confusing, but when it comes to application the general rule of thumb is to pay attention to the product’s consistency. “Apply the lightest, thinnest product first and the heaviest, and more dense products last, since thinner products can’t penetrate thicker products,”says Dr. Lewis. After cleansing the face and following up with a toner, let the skin dry before using a serum. You can layer different serums on top of each other or opt for a product that has a precise mix of multiple hero ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Source · www.skincare.com