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Skin science article

Torriden Dive In Soothing Cream Versus Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream

Torriden Dive In Soothing Cream Versus Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmito

Torriden Dive In Soothing Cream Versus Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Didecene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Allantoin

Ectoin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Trehalose

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

2,3-Butanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

C14-22 Alcohols

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Pentylene Glycol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Caprylyl Methicone

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Disodium EDTA

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Xanthan Gum

Glutathione

Malachite Extract

Gluconic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Didecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Ectoin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Trehalose, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, 2,3-Butanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Methicone, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Glutathione, Malachite Extract, Gluconic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Methylpropanediol

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Meadowfoam Estolide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Tribehenin

Sodium PCA

Urea

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen Amino Acids

Propanediol

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phytosterols

Phospholipids

Palmitic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Ceramide Ng

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Polyquaternium-51

Triacetin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Meadowfoam Estolide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tribehenin, Sodium PCA, Urea, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen Amino Acids, Propanediol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Trehalose, Linoleic Acid, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide Ng, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
  4. 04In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
  5. 05The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
  6. 06This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
  7. 07It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
  8. 08Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
  9. 09This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
  10. 10Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which …
  11. 11Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
  12. 12The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
  13. 13In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
  14. 14So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
  15. 15Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  16. 16Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  17. 17In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  18. 18While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  19. 19Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  20. 20This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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