Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Torriden Solid In Ceramide Lip Essence Versus FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment

Torriden Solid In Ceramide Lip Essence Versus FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. This barrier-repair lip moi

Torriden Solid In Ceramide Lip Essence Versus FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polyisobutene

Petrolatum

Diisostearyl Malate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide AP

Stearic Acid

Cholesterol

Vinegar

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Trehalose

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Microcrystalline Wax

Sargassum Fusiforme Extract

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyisobutene, Petrolatum, Diisostearyl Malate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Vinegar, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Microcrystalline Wax, Sargassum Fusiforme Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate

Ceresin

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Synthetic Wax

Sorbitan Oleate

Sorbitan Olivate

Tocopherol

Dipropylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate

Ceramide Ng

Caprylyl Glycol

Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Ceramide Eos

Dehydroacetic Acid

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate, Ceresin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Synthetic Wax, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Water, Ceramide NP, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Ng, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Ceramide Eos, Dehydroacetic Acid

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide AS is formally known as Ceramides 4 and 5.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ceramide NS is formally known as Ceramide 2. It is one of the major ceramides in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) plays a role in forming a protective barrier.

Due to its structure, skin lipids can be packed tightly and in turn, this strengthens the barrier and reduces water loss.

Studies show conditions like atopic dermatitis can worsen when ceramide NS levels are low.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.

It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.

Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Hej organic Peptide Lip Treatment

Hej organic Peptide Lip Treatment Hej organic Peptide Lip Treatment ingredients explained: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil*, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Bu…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment

FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment Ingredients in FORETDERM 119 Peptide Lip Treatment explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 39 ingredients including Bis-Diglyceryl Polyac…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →