Skin science article
Tosowoong 9 Peptide Skin Booster Serum Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid + Collagen + Niacinamide Activating Serum
Tosowoong 9 Peptide Skin Booster Serum Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid + Collagen + Niacinamide Activating Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This barr
Tosowoong 9 Peptide Skin Booster Serum Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid + Collagen + Niacinamide Activating Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Acetyl Glucosamine
Hyaluronic Acid
Lecithin
Acetyl Glutamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Hexapeptide-11
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Oligopeptide-1
Folic Acid
Oligopeptide-2
Oligopeptide-3
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hexapeptide-11, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oligopeptide-1, Folic Acid, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Propanediol
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Squalene
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Amylopectin
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Collagen Amino Acids
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Lactic Acid
Phospholipids
Ceramide NP
Phytosterols
Phytosphingosine
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract
Akebia Quinata Stem Extract
Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Ceramide EOP
Polyglutamic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Hexylene Glycol
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Benzoate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Potassium Sorbate
Carbomer
Dextran
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Squalene, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Amylopectin, Lecithin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Collagen Amino Acids, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oligopeptide-3, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Folic Acid, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactic Acid, Phospholipids, Ceramide NP, Phytosterols, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract, Akebia Quinata Stem Extract, Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Tripeptide-1, Ceramide EOP, Polyglutamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acetyl Glutamine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dextran, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
This ingredient is created by fermenting soybean extract with the bacteria, bacillus. It has antioxidant and skin conditioning properties.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Folic acid is a form of Vitamin B9. Our bodies use folic acid for creating new cells and for DNA repair.
Folic acid is an antioxidant, making it an effective skin repair ingredient.
In vivo studies show folic acid to decrease UV-C induced DNA damage on human fibroblasts. This is because folic acid is effective at rejoining breaks in the fibroblast DNA. It is believed folic acid may play a role in reducing UV-B damage as well. While the mechanisms are unknown, it is believed folic acid plays a role in disrupting the DNA damage process.
Studies show using moisturizers rich in folic acid led to increased hydration of the skin. Hydrated skin is essential for collagen and elastin, or for keeping skin plump. One study found a reduction in wrinkles from using folic acid creams.
Foods rich in folic acid include leafy vegetables, beans, peanuts, fresh fruit, and eggs.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This synthetic peptide is known as a signal peptide. Signal peptides tell your skin to create more collagen, elastin and protein.
Hexapeptide-11 is composed of several amino acids, including alanine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Oligopeptide-1 is another name for Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF). In a formula, EGF works as a signaling ingredient.
EGF binds to receptors on your skin cells and tells keratinocytes/fibroblasts to divide, move, and rebuild the skin's support structure.
A 2012 open-label study on a barley-derived EGF serum reported statistically significant improvements in fine-lines, skin texture, pore size, and uneven skin tone, with changes showing up within the first month of 2x/daily use.
And a 2023 review found generally positive but modest results for growth factor products while pointing out that most trials are small, often industry-funded, and rarely test EGF on its own.
So, a fair summary of this ingredient would be "promising with real mechanistic backing, but not yet large-scale proof".
Concentration-wise, EGF is biologically active at very tiny amounts so finished products use it at low levels (think parts per million).
Raw material supplies usually sell a pre-diluted EGF solution and recommend adding roughly 1-5% of that solution to a formula.
Another practical catch: EGF is a fragile protein so it reacts badly to heat and the wrong pH. This just means it relies heavily on good packaging and a solid delivery system to stay active in a bottle.
Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Oligopeptide-1. The "sh-" prefix just means "synthetic human" and it tells you that it's the lab grown version.
Oligopeptide-2 is a synthetic peptide consisting of consisting of lysine, threonine, and serine.
Peptides have skin conditioning properties.
Oligopeptide-3 is a peptide.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.
This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.
GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.
In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.
Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.
Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.
A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.
While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.
Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.