Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Transparent Lab Gentle Rejuvenation Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

Transparent Lab Gentle Rejuvenation Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ellagic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ret

Transparent Lab Gentle Rejuvenation Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ellagic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Ellagic Acid

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Retinol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Phytate

Phosphatidylcholine

Mannitol

Lecithin

Cholesterol

BHA

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Decyl Glucoside

BHT

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Ellagic Acid, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Retinol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Phosphatidylcholine, Mannitol, Lecithin, Cholesterol, BHA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Decyl Glucoside, BHT, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Butylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Retinyl Acetate

Dimethicone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Phospholipids

Squalane

Glycine Soja Oil

Carbomer

Polysorbate 60

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycolipids

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Squalane
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Propanediol
  5. 05Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
  6. 06Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  7. 07Bakuchiol
  8. 08Phenoxyethanol
  9. 09Sodium Caproyl Prolinate
  10. 10Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  11. 11Carbomer
  12. 12Sodium Hydroxide
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin
  14. 14Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  15. 15Polysorbate 60
  16. 16Phytic Acid
  17. 17Glyceryl Polyacrylate
  18. 18Sorbitan Isostearate
  19. 19Tocopherol
  20. 20Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bakuchiol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexyl…
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum

The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum ingredients explained: Dimethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Peg-10 Dimethicone Show all ingredients by function Dimethi…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side