Tree of Life Hyaluronic Acid Serum with Vitamin C | Hydrate + Plump Versus TruSkin Retinol Facial Serum

Tree of Life Hyaluronic Acid Serum with Vitamin C | Hydrate + Plump Versus TruSkin Retinol Facial Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Centella Asiatica Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide

Glycerin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Dimethyl Sulfone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Camellia Sinensis Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Taraxacum Officinale Extract

Geranium Maculatum Extract

Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose

Carrageenan

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dimethyl Sulfone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Carrageenan, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin

Herbal Infusion

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Retinol

Tocopherol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Propolis Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Alcohol

Lecithin

Herbal Infusion, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Retinol, Tocopherol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propolis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Carrageenan, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carrageenan is a gel-forming sugar chain pulled out of red seaweed. In skincare, it's a texture ingredient rather than an active that:

Formulators typically use it around 0.1-2% but go up to 5% in thick gel masks or toothpaste-style products.

It's a very large molecule that doesn't meaningfully get through intact skin and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it's safe at current use levels.

True allergy is rare and there are only two published cases from internal/mucosal exposure rather than anything topical. Most of the scary internet content about Carrageenan is actually about poligeenan (also called "degraded carrageenan").

Poligeenan is a deliberately acid-broken down version that isn't food or cosmetic grade.

We don't have a description for Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide yet.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

This botanical extract is also known as horsetail extract. It mainly acts as an emollient, skin soother, and astringent.

A study from 2023 found compounds in Equisetum Arvense showed significant anti-inflammatory effects in irritated keratinocytes (the main cell in your outermost layer of skin).

Another study using a cream with horsetail and soybean extract found 80% of participants showed at least a 26% improvement in forehead wrinkles after 8 weeks.

Animal research has shown topical Equisetum Arvense stimulated skin and tissue growth in mice.

The research so far is encouraging, but still in its early days. But it's a lovely supporting ingredient and can be a welcome addition to any routine.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hamamelis Virginiana Water is made by distilling parts of the witch hazel plant. You can also call this ingredient "witch hazel water".

The name 'Hamamelis Virginiana Water' refers to the distillation product used in cosmetics. On the other hand, 'Witch Hazel' refers to the active drug ingredient.

Unless it is specified to be non-alcohol, many types of witch hazel ingredients are distilled in denatured alcohol.

Witch Hazel water is an astringent, anti-inflammatory antioxidant, and antibacterial ingredient.

It contains tannins. Tannins have a drying effect when used on skin by constricting proteins. The constriction also minimizes the appearance of pores.

Both the tannins and fragrance found in witch hazel may be skin-sensitizing.

Witch hazel water gets anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties from its catechin and gallic acid content.

Indigenous groups have used witch hazel to help treat inflammation in North America for centuries.

We don't have a description for Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose yet.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It has perfuming and masking properties.

This ingredient contains citronellol and geraniol. These compounds may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity.

The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles. you guessed it: roses.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

This ingredient is also known as dandelion extract. It has skin conditioning properties.

Studies show the leaf, stem, and roots of this plant are rich in antioxidants such as caffeic acid and polysaccharides, which act as humectants to help hydrate the skin.

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