Skin science article
Trilogy Vitamin C Ceramide Night Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Trilogy Vitamin C Ceramide Night Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Ubiquinone and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repa
Trilogy Vitamin C Ceramide Night Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Ubiquinone and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Coco-Caprylate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
Fragaria Vesca Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Ubiquinone
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Morus Alba Root Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Dehydroacetic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Parfum
Citronellol
Limonene
Eugenol
Farnesol
Geraniol
Linalool
Essential Oil Blend
Water, Coco-Caprylate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Fragaria Vesca Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ubiquinone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum, Citronellol, Limonene, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool, Essential Oil Blend
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Glycerin
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Hydrogenated Polydecene
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Honey Extract
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Dextrin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!