Skin science article
Troiareuke P.I.T Cleansing Milk Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask
Troiareuke P.I.T Cleansing Milk Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask This mild cream cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost. What's inside Ke
Troiareuke P.I.T Cleansing Milk Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask
This mild cream cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Paraffinum Liquidum
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Glyceryl Stearate
Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Stearic Acid
Sorbitan Stearate
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Carbomer
Arginine
Steareth-20
Cyclopentasiloxane
Triethylhexanoin
1,2-Hexanediol
Disodium EDTA
Acorus Calamus Root Extract
Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Jasminum Officinale Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Saururus Chinensis Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ceteth-20
Parfum
Linalool
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Water, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Carbomer, Arginine, Steareth-20, Cyclopentasiloxane, Triethylhexanoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Saururus Chinensis Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteth-20, Parfum, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Kaolin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Sodium Stearate
Sodium Magnesium Silicate
Phenoxyethanol
Dimethyl Sulfone
Centella Asiatica Extract
Glyceryl Caprylate
Decyl Glucoside
Cellulose Gum
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Cetyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Carbomer
Tocopherol
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Sea Water Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Lonicera Japonica Leaf Extract
Panthenol
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Geranium Maculatum Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Spirulina Maxima Extract
Water, Kaolin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Sulfone, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Decyl Glucoside, Cellulose Gum, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Carbomer, Tocopherol, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Sea Water Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Lonicera Japonica Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
This ingredient is the oil from the apricot.
Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient and helps soften skin. This is due to its fatty acid components. Some of these fatty acids include linoleic and oleic acid.
This ingredient also has antioxidant properties from Vitamins A, C, and E. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Besides being antioxidants, these vitamins provide plenty of skin benefits as well.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!